Thanksgiving Staples: The Best Store-Bought Options

Are you more concerned with the appearance of dinner rolls in a basket or their functionality for sandwiches the next day? Do you prefer to pass off a frozen pie crust as homemade or aim for picture-perfect crimping? In September, a group of New York Times tasters held a blind tasting of store-bought Thanksgiving staples at the New York Times Cooking studio kitchen. The tasters included Melissa Clark, Gina Fernandez, Tanya Sichynsky, Alexa Weibel from New York Times Cooking, and Marguerite Preston from Wirecutter. Not only did they discuss their favorite national brands, but they also considered Thanksgiving priorities.

Throughout the tasting, there were some general lessons learned. It was advised to look for short ingredients lists and always parbake pie crusts. Additionally, a brushful of melted butter was recommended to give dishes a homemade appearance.

Dinner Rolls

For Thanksgiving dinner rolls, the tasters were looking for warmth, butteriness, and absorbency. Sister Schubert’s had a nice browned top but a crumbly texture. Pillsbury Swirls had a golden swirl that would look festive but was too croissant-like. The crown went to Rhodes Bake-N-Serve, which had a soft texture and a burnished top. According to Gina, it was the perfect vehicle for a sandwich.

Takeaway: Customize the dinner rolls by brushing the tops with melted butter spiked with various seasonings.

Cranberry Sauce

When it came to cranberry sauce, the goal was to bring color and flavor contrast to the table. Whole Foods’s 365 brand was too sweet. Ocean Spray had a bright red color but a milder taste. Stonewall Kitchen’s New England cranberry relish, although pricier, was indistinguishable from homemade and had a burst of flavor.

Takeaway: Spending the extra money on Stonewall Kitchen’s cranberry relish is worth it for a homemade taste.

Stuffing

Stuffing was the most polarizing dish, but there was consensus among the tasters. Trader Joe’s cornbread stuffing was not reminiscent of cornbread and lacked flavor. Stove Top had a texture similar to sour cream and onion potato chips, which appealed to fans of white bread and challah stuffings. However, Pepperidge Farm won with its fresh onion and herb flavors and the right amount of springiness.

Takeaway: Avoid stuffing with lots of umami bombs and check the ingredient list for a more flavorful result.

Premade Pie Crust

Pie crusts can be a challenge, so a good premade crust is a gift. Trader Joe’s was tender but lacked crispness and salt. Pillsbury had a nicely browned appearance but tasted like empanadas. Marie Callender’s had the closest appearance to homemade and was the overall favorite.

Takeaway: Parbake the pie crust for the best bottom crust.

Pumpkin Purée

For canned pumpkin purée, consistency was key. It shouldn’t be too wet or too dry. The tasters found that Libby’s, Happy Belly Organic (from Amazon), and Good & Gather (from Target) were very similar and all good for pie recipes.

Takeaway: No need to roast fresh pumpkin or buy preseasoned pie filling. These canned purées are simple, consistent, and easy to customize.

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