Sally Darr, Owner of Renowned French Bistro La Tulipe, Dies at 100

Sally Darr, the meticulous chef and owner of La Tulipe, a beloved French bistro in downtown Manhattan, passed away on November 7 at the age of 100. Known for her perfectionism, Darr’s exquisite yet homey French cooking and occasional delays were highly regarded in the culinary world. Her niece, Dorothy Darr, announced her death.

Located on West 13th Street, La Tulipe was a charming restaurant with limited space and a cozy atmosphere. Darr served classic French dishes such as roast chicken with garlic and her own unique creations like soft shell crab meunière and a rich terrine made with smoked tongue and foie gras mousse.

Since its opening in May 1979, La Tulipe garnered critical acclaim, earning three stars from Mimi Sheraton of The New York Times. Reviewers praised the restaurant’s small yet enticing menu, Darr’s zucchini fritters, and her immaculate lemon tart. Desserts, particularly Darr’s apricot souffle, were a highlight.

Despite having no prior restaurant experience, Darr’s confidence in her abilities never wavered. She once told Gael Greene in a 1980 review for New York magazine, “I’m going to open the perfect little French restaurant and show them all how.”

La Tulipe attracted various celebrities, including Mary Tyler Moore, James Beard, Jackie Onassis, Woody Allen, Julia Child, Frank Perdue, Gov. Hugh Carey of New York, Keith Richards, and Robert De Niro. However, Darr’s insistence on perfection often resulted in agonizing waits for customers. She would make her kitchen staff start over if the timing was off, causing frustration among reviewers and colleagues.

Despite her demanding nature, Darr’s talent and influence in the culinary world were undeniable. Jacques Pepin, a renowned French chef, praised her as a groundbreaking woman chef. Darr’s dedication to her craft and refusal to compromise made her an inspiration to many.

Born Sally Kaufman on January 18, 1923, in Brooklyn, Darr grew up in the borough and worked as a textile designer after graduating from Abraham Lincoln High School. She met her husband, John Darr, in 1953, and they married that same year. John, a Congregationalist minister and peace activist turned school principal, supported Sally in her pursuit of opening a restaurant.

Before entering the food industry, Darr spent over a decade as a recipe tester for Gourmet magazine and Time-Life books. She immersed herself in the culinary world and eventually traveled to France to collect and develop recipes for the cookbook “Gourmet’s France.” After completing the project, Darr realized she wanted to open her own restaurant and invest in herself.

The Darrs purchased a dilapidated building on West 13th Street and transformed it into La Tulipe. The restaurant operated on the ground floor, while the couple resided above. Although the go-go ’80s came to an end, and the restaurant closed in 1991, Darr’s commitment to excellence remained unwavering. She continued to cook for friends in her new apartment on West 10th Street until her passing.

Sally Darr leaves behind a legacy of culinary brilliance and unyielding perfectionism. Her contributions to the world of French cuisine and her impact on aspiring chefs will never be forgotten.