Grindavik is now a ghost town.
It has all the familiar places – shops, cafes, schools and apartment blocks.
But they are all empty, abandoned in the rush to flee an earthquake swarm over the weekend.
We were taken into the town under police escort, passing through several checkpoints.
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The authorities are jumpy.
The magma is now thought to be just 500m below the surface right on the edge of town and they fear there could be an eruption at any time.
In the town centre the ground looks like it is being unzipped, with a gash stretching 150m or so.