Grace Wales Bonner: From Fashion Designer to Curator

Grace Wales Bonner, known for her academic approach to fashion, has become an influential figure in the field. Her brand, Wales Bonner, showcases collections that are deeply rooted in intensive research, exploring critical theory, music, literature, history, and mysticism. With a focus on Black identity and conversations about race, her meticulously crafted garments combine traditional African craft techniques with references to influential figures like Haile Selassie, James Baldwin, and Theaster Gates, as well as settings like Harlem in the early 20th century and Jamaican dance halls in the 1970s. Her Afro-Atlantic approach to fashion has led to partnerships with Adidas and designing uniforms for the Jamaican soccer teams. Additionally, she has started showcasing her collections in Paris, the center of luxury fashion.

However, Ms. Wales Bonner is not limited to the fashion industry. After years of research, she curated an exhibition called “Spirit Movers” at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. The exhibition explores the translation of sound into different mediums and how it can imbue objects and images with meaning. The artworks selected for the exhibition, including pieces by Man Ray, Alexander Calder, Betye Saar, Moustapha Dimé, and Terry Adkins, reflect the dynamic nature of art connected to ritual, devotion, and collective experience.

Ms. Wales Bonner’s interest in sound and rhythm is evident in her fashion work as well. She aims to express sound through clothing and image-making, constantly challenging herself to bring rhythm into cloth. Terry Adkins’ artwork “Last Trumpet,” which uses old musical instrument parts to create elongated horns, is a key piece in the exhibition, symbolizing sonic potential, performance, and a new state of being. Ms. Wales Bonner’s research work is akin to a meditative state, allowing her to access the sentiments and attitudes of different generations, providing a guided and directed process for her design work.

Putting on the MoMA exhibition posed challenges, mainly due to the vast collection available. The task was to create a coherent story while allowing for imaginative potential. Editing and refining, similar to her work with Wales Bonner, played a crucial role in crafting the exhibition’s narrative.

While Ms. Wales Bonner’s fashion work often focuses on spotlighting the Black diaspora, the exhibition takes a broader, international approach. Artists like David Hammons explore Afro-Asian connections, opening up possibilities for the inclusion of Asian artists like Yasunao Tone. The accompanying book for the exhibition also features photographs by Roy DeCarava, capturing the Black urban American experience and contributing to Ms. Wales Bonner’s understanding of style.

As her brand grows, Ms. Wales Bonner now showcases her fashion collections in Paris, aiming to elevate the presence of Blackness within culture. She sees herself as part of the fashion and art landscape, with the ability to have more influence by being part of and disrupting from within.