Cuff links are no longer common in Western men’s fashion, but they have become a status symbol in the Middle East. These accessories add a personalized touch to the traditional gown-like outer garment worn by men in the United Arab Emirates and neighboring Arab countries.
Unlike Western suits, cuff links worn on the sleeves of the thawb (also known as thobe, kandoora, or dishdasha) are more visible. In a bustling corner of the Dubai Gold Souk, cuff links have become an important product for Necklaces by Samaa, a business founded in 2009 by five immigrants from different countries.
Junaid ur Rehman, co-founder and creative director of Necklaces by Samaa, said, “We offer cuff links that have the customer’s name or initials in Arabic or English. We decided to personalize our jewelry and cuff links so that everyone has a piece of jewelry that is entirely theirs.”
Over the course of 14 years, Necklaces by Samaa has expanded from solely producing necklaces to creating other accessories, including jewelry for men. The company now offers 19 cuff-link designs, all made in sterling silver by its 35 full-time employees in the Deira neighborhood of Dubai, commonly known as Old Dubai.
The cuff links typically feature the wearer’s initials or name, designed by the company’s calligraphy expert. The initials are then produced as a series of cutout letters or engraved by laser on flat or rounded surfaces of the links. The price range for both engraved and cutout versions is 319 dirhams to 445 dirhams, or $87 to $121.
According to Mr. Rehman, the popularity of cuff links extends beyond local Arabs purchasing for themselves. They have become popular gifts to impress clients, mark the closure of business deals, and are often given as mementos to visitors. Necklaces by Samaa works with 25 to 30 corporations in the U.A.E. to provide gifts for their best employees or foreign visitors. Cuff links are also created as gifts for occasions like Christmas, graduations, Muslim holidays such as Eid, birthdays, weddings, and anniversaries.
Deakin & Francis, a London jeweler established in 1786, has recently discovered the popularity of cuff links in the Middle East. Despite Arab visitors to their flagship London store, cuff links have only recently become a popular product in this region.
Henry Deakin, co-owner of Deakin & Francis and the seventh generation of his family in the business, said, “Thawbs are a very plain piece of clothing, and there are only three ways you can really express yourself, such as with a watch, a pen, and cuff links.”
In February, Deakin & Francis began selling approximately 30 different cuff-link designs at the Rivoli men’s store in the Dubai Mall. The company primarily sells online and through its London store. Mr. Deakin also mentioned ongoing discussions with retailers in Qatar to begin sales there.
The best-selling cuff links among Middle Eastern clients, including those who wear thawbs in Britain, are two 18-karat white gold designs set with diamonds, priced at £15,710 and £18,860 ($19,575 and $23,500).
Mr. Deakin also noted a growing interest in custom-made cuff links over the past few years. He said, “For this market, we’re doing a lot of bespoke items for clients who want a 3-D model of a pet falcon, or for a car or boat.” One recent commission for a Qatari customer depicted a falcon created in yellow and white gold with a ruby eye. Another client in the region wanted cuff links shaped like his private jet, which required attention to detail. The bespoke item cost approximately £10,000.
Mr. Deakin added with a laugh, “It was very important that we got the number of windows of his private jet correct.”